紙牌屋中的肋排 - 歐美
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By Xanthe
at 2017-08-08T22:00
at 2017-08-08T22:00
Table of Contents
紙牌屋前兩季常常出現烤肋排
每次看到都覺得好餓好想吃啊
沒想到火烤、肋排同時也隱喻了劇情發展
以下摘錄自刀裡來,火裡去:權慾燻烤的《紙牌屋》肋排
https://sunmai.life/material/foodpairing/taste-of-power-house-of-cards-netflix
故事回到第二季結局,這時未經總統大選檢驗的Frank Underwood,竟能循著合法途徑晉
身美國總統,攀上權力巔峰。對野心勃勃的政治家來說,沒有什麼美食比權力的滋味更迷
人了,編劇對飲食少有著墨,唯一一道貫穿全劇的料理,是出自貧民區的Freddy’s烤肉
鋪,一道由非裔廚師製作的烤肋排。
第一季首集,擔任黨鞭的Frank一早驅車前往Freddy’s烤肉鋪,享用他口中的「靈魂食物
」,接著才去和多數黨領袖研議政事。在之後的劇情中,無論為了募款遊說參議員,或處
理棘手的教師罷工,Frank蓄勢待發之際,都能看見他大啖烤肋排的樣子。「我老家在南
卡羅來納州,大家都很窮,吃烤肋排是種奢侈,就像提早過耶誕節一樣。」在美國南方,
只有遇到節慶活動才會燒一頭豬來熱鬧一番,對Frank而言,烤肋排是上場廝殺前的能量
補給,也是提前慶祝勝利的犒賞。
從這塊讓Frank大快朵頤的烤肋排,可以看見早期美洲移民的軌跡。十六世紀西班牙冒險
家Hernando de Soto將豬帶進南美,牠們的後代生活在北卡和南卡羅來納州,以櫟實和山
胡桃為食,飲食習慣讓肉質具有當地風土特色。用柴火燒烤全豬的手法則是隨著黑奴傳入
的。黑奴行經加勒比海時,看見印地安人將豬隻剖開架在火坑上,抵達美洲後,黑奴學著
使用櫟木燻烤豬肉,這道煙燻香氣撲鼻的烤肉料理,就是現在的BBQ。此外,當時黑奴帶
來的紅辣椒種子,也成為BBQ主要調味料。從歷史脈絡來看,不難理解為什麼頂尖燒烤師
傅大多來自非裔。
「燉」和「煨煮」是隨著文明發展出的烹飪手法,在封閉空間中以小火烹調,動物經歷緩
慢而徹底的轉化,成為人類盤中的食物。而《紙牌屋》料理肋排所採用的「火烤」,則可
以追溯自舊石器時代。將動物放置在火焰上燒烤,不但原型被保留下來,甚至肌理還帶著
鮮血,現代人以原始方式進食,可以視為內心獸性的展現。對照《紙牌屋》劇情,Frank
為了擴張勢力版圖,反擊政敵時刀刀見骨,為求自保,甚至心狠手辣謀殺記者和眾議員,
就像古時祭司宰殺牲畜祭神一樣,入主白宮之路上堆疊的血淋淋屍骨,正是他對權力慾望
的獻祭。
參考書目:《烹》,Michael Pollan著,大家出版社。
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